North America Trip Parts 10, 11 & 12: It's Got So Many People But It's Got No Soul

I awoke on Friday morning trying to piece my previous day together. It had been an interesting day and evening to say the least, I still had two more nights of Vegas craziness to look forward to. Em and I traded stories of our previous night, she had been to see a ventriloquist comedian, I got propositioned by a drug peddling hooker, so we had both had very Vegas experiences. Tonight was going to be the night I tried out my mediocre Texas Hold Em skills on the tables, Em was going to watch a girl who used to sleep with leathery old Hugh Heffner strip in a show called 'Holly Madison's Peepshow.' once again, we were both planning very different yet very quintessential Vegas experiences. One persons night turned out they way the had planned, the others didn't so much...
We started the day later than usual and headed to Madame Tussuads at The Venetion Hotel & Casino. It's fair to say that Madame Tussuads was my favourite Las Vegas experience, first of all it was not very busy, so we had plenty of time to wander the exhibits. The wax figures are almost creepy in their life likeness, all made to scale of the actual people they were portraying (some of the sculptures were so lifelike that a person who saw the picture of myself and Sarah Michelle Gellar asked who the pretty blond girl was and if she was my girlfriend. She was quite embarrassed when I explained that it was a wax model of Buffy the Vampire Slayer). Madame Tussuads is Designed for people to have fun, with plenty of interactive displays (such as shooting hoops with Shaquille O'neal, sinking a putt with Tiger Woods, hitting the dance floor with Beyoncé, joint the Rat Pack on stage and many more) and loads of room to allow people to take photos. My favourite sculptures? Sitting at the presidents desk in the Oval Office with President Obama was quite cool, Halle Berry, Daniel Craig and Criss Angel had very lifelike sculptures and the Spiderman one was quite cool as well. I completely geeked out for the Scarecrow from Batman Begins however.
From The Venetian we headed down to Stratusphere at the top of the north end of the strip. The north end is much older and less glamorous than the south end of the strip. In fact from Circus Circus down to Stratusphere is kind of ghetto. Upon my return back to Australia people who had been to Vegas were shocked that we walked up and down that particular part of the strip. But walk we did, stopping in souvenir shops playing Mexican hip hop with security guards sitting up on high chairs like a tennis umpire, keeping a very close eye on anyone who wandered into the shop. We made into Stratusphere unscathed and headed to the viewing area on the 108th floor. The vista view of the Las Vegas area was spectacular, showing just what a desolate, yet beautiful area the Mojave desert is, it looked like a roadrunner cartoon come to life and the contrast between the glitzy man made showiness of Las Vegas and the rugged untouched nature of the desert was striking. If I'm in Nevada again, I'm heading out of the city and exploring the countryside. For people who are more of a thrill seeker than I, you can bungee off the top of Stratusphere in addition to a couple of rides called Big Shot, X Treme and Insanity.
Friday night and while Em headed off to watch Holly Madison, I went to the MGM to watch the Minnesota Timberwolves visit LA to take on the Clippers on one of the movie sized screens that were in the sports area of the casino. Of course, as I wrote earlier, my original plan was to play a few hands of Hold Em at the Flamingo, but that was thwarted when they refused to accept my Australian drivers license as a valid form of ID and insisted that it was my passport or nothing. Was I disappointed that I didn't get to play? Sure, but I was more flattered that they asked me for ID as I've been well over the legal gambling age of 21 for years. That certainly boosted my self esteem a bit!
I wandered around the strip some more after the game, chatting to one of the rappers who was up for a chat every time his new Australian friend went past. And on this night, I went two for two in being offered cocaine again. I'm anti drug, but I will say this about the pushers, they asked and if you said no thank you, they politely said no problem and looked for their next mark, no hassling you to buy and if they heard you were straight edge they were actually pretty respectful about the whole thing. After that however, I decided I'd call it a night, my feet were killing me after all the walking around the strip and I was about Vegas'd out for the day. I headed to bed that night wondering what Saturday on the strip would be like.
Saturday in Vegas was unlike anything I'd seen the previous two nights, it was like the population doubled overnight. It was wall to wall bucks parties, hens nights, birthdays, you name it. I was once again a real novelty to the groups on the hens nights, I had a few approach me as part of their bucket list of items and it usually ended with me answer multiple questions about Australia and hearing about my cute accent. I ended up in a few photos and even had one bride to be sign her name on the heart that is tattooed on my right arm (And Staci, if you read this, I hope you had a great wedding day). I also chatted to a girl from Belgium who was holidaying in Las Vegas with her Dad, who was probably the only 25 year old there with one of her parents. The Australian accent is a magnet to Americans who hear it and aren't from parts of America that Australians often visit. Between my accent and tattoo's I had plenty of people want to chat with me. Oh and what's a night in Vegas without being offered cocaine? Yep, three nights, three offers. That's Las Vegas.
We were leaving Vegas the next morning, on our way to Los Angeles and I was thinking about my impression of the city. I had been really keen to experience Las Vegas, but after a day or two, I wanted to leave and head back to Cleveland or New York. Las Vegas is a place that is mostly show and little substance. It's like seeing a girl at three in the morning at a club, all made up, then waking up in the morning and seeing what they really look like. It's a pretty charmless, sleazy city, but a place you still have to see to believe.

North America Trip Parts 10, 11 & 12: And Out Come The Wolves.

"Gareth, I'll be severely disappointed if you go to America and don't spend more than two days in Vegas". These were the words of my friend and previous Vegas visitor Kasey when I was running over a draft itinerary of the planned sojourn through the USA. Kasey had fond memories of Vegas, she married her husband and one of my oldest friends Nifty while in Las Vegas for the International Tattoo Convention there a few years ago, she met celebrities she admired, partied on the strip and just generally had a ball. Most people do, it's Sin City, America's playground where anything goes and what happens there usually stays there. It's a place of bright lights, loud noises and even louder personalities, where it's nothing to be walking the strip early in the morning and finding people with giant margaritas in their hands, still kicking on from the night before. It's a brash in your face type of city. But was it my type of city?
We arrived in Las Vegas early Wednesday night following a flight from Cleveland that was overbooked. Entering the terminal slot machines and ads for machine gun firing ranges greeted us. Vegas is built on slots, they are everywhere. They are in the casinos in great numbers of course, but also throughout the airport, in service stations, supermarkets, you name it. I wouldnt have been surprised if there had've been one in the toilet (not sure I'd want to win that 'jackpot' though). It's a city built on gambling and for the purpose of gambling. As a local girl named Arielle (one of the few naturally pretty girls I met in Vegas) said to me as she noted my astonishment "We survive off them, if we don't have the slots, we don't have jobs." Arielle's job was selling custom poker chips inside the Planet Hollywood hotel/casino and it was a rarity to actually meet a Vegas local. She gave me some clarity on the proliferation of the machines because let's face it, without them, Las Vegas would just be a big city placed randomly in the middle of the desert.
Em and I checked into our hotel, the Flamingo hotel/casino, the casino partly built by gangster Bugsy Seigal and named the Flamingo after his nickname for his girlfriend ( he called her flamingo because of her long legs apparently). It's one of the oldest resorts on the strip, houses a wildlife habitat in the courtyard featuring actual flamingos and numerous shops and bars. Even on the gaudy Las Vegas strip, the Flamingo stands out for its outrageous gaudiness. It's decorated in a neon pink from top to bottom and apparently the exterior is meant to be a homage to Miami and South Beach. Think Miami Vice style 80's and you get a good idea of the Flamingo. Em and I were also shocked to find that smoking was freely allowed inside buildings in Las Vegas, unlike Australia and our other stops in the US & Canada. Em was still feeling the tail end of her illness, so she went straight to bed while I strolled the casino and found a little bar where I could watch the Dall

as Mavericks take on the LA Clippers.
Neither Em nor myself rose that early the next day, it's Vegas you can get up and go to bed when ever you want and everything will still be running the exact same way. We decided to head out and explore the strip, starting of course at the Flamingo and heading south. We looked through most of the hotel/casinos on the way, Paris, the MGM Grand, Planet Hollywood, Excalibur, New York New York etc. and had our first taste of the infamous Vegas flickers. The flickers are a group who normally assemble on the corner of most blocks on the strip and try and give passers by promo cards for strip joints or prostitutes. They gain your attention by flicking the cards in their fingers to make a clicking sound and put their hands in as close to your personal space as they can. And they didn't care that I was walking around with Em, who for all they knew may have been my partner, they just were trying to make a living and most guys and a few girls had these touts harassing them on every street corner. It remained a constant annoyance but it was something you do knd of get used to.
We continued our journey back up the north end of the strip, stopping at Ceasers Palace and The Venetion. Em also booked in some shows to see at various Casinos, including a ventriloquist named Terru Fator (Em assured me he was amazing and i missed a great show) the Cirque De Solei Beatles tribute Show 'Love' and Holly Madison's Peep Show (I'd never heard of Holly Madison btw, I told Kim that Em was seeing 'some stripper named Holly Madison or something' Kim immediately replied with 'Oh I love her!' When I quizzed some more on who she was I found out she was famous for being engaged to Hugh Heffner or something. Really? That's all it takes to be famous? I really need to write about the cult of celebrity and how stupid it all is...). I preferred to just wander the strip, stop in at sports bars and catch whatever NBA or NHL game was screening.
It was on this first night that I encountered my first real taste of the seediness that underpins Las Vegas. I was heading back to the hotel room that night when I was stopped by a beautiful Asian girl with a pretty cute Midwestern US accent. She was quite chatty and as I went to leave she followed me to the elevator. It was then she told me what she did for a living, yep, I got hit on by a hooker (cue Steel Panther singing 'Asian Hooker'). I explained that sorry, I don't do that kind of stuff and anyway my friend was upstairs asleep, she shrugged and said 'there's always the bathroom' followed by 'we can just hang out if you'd feel better, I have party starters' Once again my small town neivity shone through, 'what's a party starter?' I asked. She looked at me like she wasn't sure if I was serious. 'You know, some coke...' Even nieve little old me knew that she wasn't talking soft drink. 'Look' I said, 'I apologise but I'm not really comfortable with this whole situation and I'm not interested thanks.' It was an awkward situation to say the least, because as those who know me know I am very anti drug and also not the type of person who'd do anything with a prostitute. She looked disappointed and probably wondered how she honed in on the one guy in Vegas NOT looking for a drug fueled night with a prostitute, but im sure if she had've looked in my wallet she would really have gotten depressed. I wonder what three Canadian dollars would've gotten me?
After I safely made it back to the hotel room (on my own I might add) I thought more about this girl. She could've done anything with her life, she was attractive sand well spoken, why did she become a person who trades sex for cash? What were here life's goals, hopes and dreams? What did she think she'd become when she was a child and if she could go back and meet her schoolyard self, what would she say? I didn't run into her again, but finding out why her life led her to this would've been an interesting story. I drifted off to sleep thinking about just how crazy my first full Las Vegas day had been and wondering what madness Friday and Saturday nights would offer...



TO BE CONTINUED...

But first, a rant...

Dear Google Adsense, why have you disabled my Adsense account because of 'invalid clicks' when THERE WEREN'T EVEN ANY ADS IN PLACE YET TO CLICK ON?!?!?!?!?!?! What a joke. Lift your game.

Not Drowning, Waving.

Summer. Most Australians love it. It means long balmy evenings, late evening BBQ's and jovially boisterous drinks with family and friends, the sound of leather and willow colliding on cricket fields around the country. It's Christmas and New Years, holidays and relaxing, heading to the coast, lakes or local swimming pools to cool down after 30°-40°c days. It's part of what most Australians would say is one of the defining pieces of our national psyche. We love the water, we Aussies. We laud our Olympic swimming stars, we preach to kids the importance of water safety from a young age and start learning to swim from an even younger age. The water, be it the beach or the local swimming pool is one of our most treasured cultural icons for a relatively young country that is still finding it's culture and true identity. Yet this summer in my hometown of Ararat, something has been missing. Our outdoor swimming pool has been shut for the summer and is in danger of being lost for good.
Friday the 3rd of February was a typical late January/early February evening in Ararat, the weather had been in the mid to high 20°c range during the day, meaning that the evening was ripe to be enjoyed. There was the usual plethora of walkers, families enjoying picnic dinners at Alexandra Gardens by the lake, kids on their bikes making the most of the extended daylight hours. A few of the Ararat Eagles footballers were having a casual preseason kick around on Alexandra oval, where they were soon to be joined by around 1500 other people, located around the grand old Olver stand. These 1500, myself included, weren't there to watch the lads get into their preseason football routine however. We were there for one reason: to save our outdoor pool, to show a council who had let this Olympic sized swimming facility fall into decay that yes, we cared. To show community pride and spirit, a welcome sight in a town that is sometimes bogged down in the negativity of some of the residents.
As I walked around the oval with my friends Jon & Hanna, I ran into one of my oldest friends, Phil, and his young son Blade. We had the usual obligatory chit chat, how's work, were your holidays good, that sort of thing. I then said to Phil how great it was that he came down to support the cause. What he said next struck a cord in my mind. "How could I not? That pool was a part of our childhood, it helped make us who we are. I don't want my kids to miss out on some of the great experiences I had there."
I thought about Phil's words as we sat in the grandstand listening to the rally organizer speak. I had never thought like that before, the pool had always just been there and to be honest I hadn't swam there for years. My initial outrage was more based on the fact that the pool was a true community achievement, built in the 1950's by a big group of local volunteers (including my grandparents). It truly was a structure for the people by the people and upon completion was handed over and entrusted to the Ararat City Council, under the assurance that they would maintain the pool in good condition. It was something that the community should've been truly proud of. Did we, the citizens of Ararat, take it for granted? Perhaps. But we never thought we'd see a summer where the pool would be empty of water and closed indefinitely. I'm sure the original builders would never have imagined that would've happened either. Now however my mind was wandering not to my grandparents and the other people who got the pool built, but what it meant to me and my childhood/adolescence.
The more I thought about Phil's words, the more the memories came flooding back to me. My grandmother taking me to the pool when I was only very young, keeping a watchful eye on me as I splashed around the shallow end, not letting me back in the pool for half an hour after I'd eaten a icy pole on my break from the water. My cousins from Melbourne and I walking down on a hot summers day, change jingling in our pockets ready to cool down on a typically scorching January afternoon. It was swimming lessons every term one and term four right through school until about year ten. I was not/am not/will never be a strong swimmer, but being left out of the 'advanced' swimming group always stung me. As I grew older, it was heading to the pool with my friends during those awkward years between the ages of 12-14. We would swim sure, or perhaps try and get into the usually long line for the diving board, but more often than not it was our premium spot to sit under the trees on the grassy hills and chat about music, movies, school, tv and of course girls. It was where we would oh so awkwardly approach the girl we liked to ask out, or not go through with it because the public rejection in front of our peers and more importantly in front of the object of our affections and her friends would be like a form of social suicide. That didn't stop us from checking out the girls walking past though, stirring our adolescent hormones, especially when a woman who'd probably now be called a MILF would swim laps in her white bikini,it was like a late Christmas gift to a group of 15 year old boys! It was the site of my favorite high school day, our swimming sports in year 12. I didn't even enter the water,it was the carnival type atmosphere, we being in our final school year were allowed to have our stereos blasting out our music (a curious mix of punk, ska, metal, grunge, hip hop and electro. You could go from Propaghandi to The Prodigy to Reel Big Fish to Xzhibit in four songs) and to cook ourselves up a BBQ and dress as crazily as we liked. It summed up what the pool meant. It wasn't just a place to learn to swim or splash around on a hot summers day. It was our village green. It was our meeting place, where we could socialise out of our school uniforms and free from the constraints of bells, classes and teachers. It was part of what molded us into the people we became, good or bad. Many an important decision was made there over a can of coke and a bag of BBQ chips.
It was another summertime status quo that when daylight savings came, you could hear the excited chatter of the next batch of kids experiencing what we did, listening to the music blasting through the crackly old sound system that was in place, only interrupted by an occasional foreboding voice booming over the PA saying "you in the black shorts, out of the pool!" or something similar. But the pool is silent. Closed due not just the councils neglect, but also due to us taking it for granted. But we need the outdoor pool. We need it so that our kids can swim, flirt, socialise and grow just as we did. We need it so that the efforts of all those good men and woman of a bygone era's work for future generations wasn't in vain. We need it because all good communities need a place to socialise, excercise and watch the world go by. If we lose the pool, we'll be losing part of ourselves, part of the town spirit, part of the town history.
The pool must stay.

North America Trip, Parts 8 & 9: Because My Heart Is In Ohio.

"Where you from? Australia! What are you doing in Cleveland?!?!" That was the phrase I heard the most during my time in the largest city in the state of Ohio. Cleveland has had it rough lately. Once a booming and prosperous industrial city Cleveland fell on hard times when the American manufacturing sector started to crumble. Cleveland is the butt of alot of jokes (Chicago Bulls big man Joakim Noah at a press conference during a Bulls/Cavaliers playoff series once famously remarked: "Cleveland sucks. When have you ever heard anyone say I'm going on a vacation to Cleveland?"), it's known as the most tortured sports city in America and even people back in Australia were somewhat bemused by my decision to visit Cleveland. As my Cleveland born and bred friend Kim put it "Cleveland people are surprised when somebody from Florida comes here, let alone Australia". Well let me state this here for the world to see:

I loved Cleveland.

That's right, I said it! And I say it without irony or sarcasm, I loved Cleveland. Cleveland to me is what America is all about. Friendly, polite, helpful people. The type of America you hear about but don't necessarily see in the bigger cities or the tourist hot spots. The people of Cleveland were extremely warm and welcoming, proud to tell visitors to the area about the city and give advice on places to see and things to do and always up for a chat. The city itself isn't all broken down industrial sites, indeed the downtown area is undergoing somewhat of a renaissance and when the Cavs are playing at the Quicken Loans Arena or the Cleveland Indians are at home at the next door Progressive Field (Still called Jacobs Field by the locals), downtown is a thriving hub of activity. The Rock n Roll Hall Of Fame is located in Cleveland, while the NFL Hall Of Fame is found in nearby Canton. During football season the cities beloved Cleveland Browns play at the Browns Stadium which sits on Lake Erie. If sports aren't your thing, check out the West Side Market, University Circle, the Old Arcade or the USS Cod Memorial.
My time in Cleveland however was for the most part spent around the southern suburbs. One of the main reasons for my visit to Cleveland was to see my long distance friend Kimberly Price. Kim had previously informed me that due to car issues she couldn't pick us up from the airport, but to get a good nights sleep and be ready for tomorrow. I took her advice and kicked back to watch the LA Lakers host the NBA champion Dallas Mavericks on tv. It wasn't a pretty game to watch and I was hopeful that reason number two for visiting Cleveland, my first live NBA game, would be a better spectacle.
I was very excited to finally see Kim in the flesh. We'd spoken plenty over facebook and had skype'd a few times, but seeing someone in person is always a little different. Kim seemed equally as excited as I was to finally have a face to face and when the diminutive redhead with the piercing green eyes finally appeared at the door I was overjoyed. Kim seemed a little amused and bemused at some of our Australian idiosyncrasies, things that were the everyday to her were new and exciting to us. We stopped to see one of Kim's friends and grab a burger at Wendy's. I think we stopped production there all together. The staff appeared amazed and excited that some Australians were in the store and were delighted when they heard our accents. They were also shocked to hear that Wendy's in Australia is an ice cream chain, as opposed to a burger joint.
Our next stop was a place that is an absolute must for any sweet tooth heading to the States, a gigantic warehouse called B.A. Sweeties which featured the largest collection of lollies/sweets/candy in the USA. I struck gold when I came across the Dr. Pepper flavoured jelly beans. The staff at Sweeties were equally as excited/curious about the Australians in their store, so we answered their questions and gave them info on our home country. For the record, Cleveland is where I had the strangest question I received during the whole trip "Do you guys have movies in Australia?" I replied that yes in fact we do and we sometimes even get them before they screen in the US. The people in Ohio were all generally interested in Australia and all said that they wanted to come for a holiday (when they could afford it). That night, Em and I headed downtown to catch the NBA live at the Q (for my recap of the game, click here). I had played basketball since I was a kid and the chance to see a live NBA game was something I had dreamed of since I began following basketball at the age of six.
Day two was a shorter day, we had a plane to catch to Las Vegas that evening, but I was glad to spend more time with Kim, chilling at Caribou Coffee, eating a massive Chipotle burrito and just generally have a nice chill day ahead of the madness we thought may be awaiting us in Nevada. It was also the day that some beautiful snow blanketed the city. We must have looked crazy to the locals, standing around in the snow with big grins on our faces, but this was a real novelty for us. It was one of the biggest things we wanted to experience while in North America and it happened in Cleveland.
I was sad to say goodbye to Kim later that day and also kind of sad to be leaving Ohio.

North America Trip Parts Cinq, Six et Sept: What's Cooler Than Being Cool? Ice Cold.

Em and I had an early start to our final morning in New York, no time to savor one last look around the city, we had a train to catch and that meant being at Penn Station by no later than 7.45am. We were facing an eleven hour train trip through upstate New York over the Canadian border into the francophone province of Quebec and it's largest city, Montreal. So it was goodbye hot dogs, the stars and stripes and the Rangers and bonjour to poutine, le fleur de le (and the maple leaf) and le Canadiens.
The trip through upstate New York was gentle and rollicking, if not somewhat boisterous due to the bucks party group who were on their way to Montreal for a weekend of debauchery and hockey. The scenery was beautiful as we went throu places such as Ploughskeepie and the capital of New York State Albany Snaking alongside the Hudson river. It was around Albany where we got our first glimpse of what was to be something we would see a lot of, but never really become accustomed to, in Montreal: snow. The further north we went, the heavier the snow got until it was at full on snow storm level by the time we got to the Canadian border. Around the lakes of upstate New York there were groups of people ice fishing on the frozen surfaces, trees with limbs bowing due to the heaviness of the snow on their limbs and rustic little houses that looked like something out of Fargo.
The crossing into Canada was interesting to say the least. Em and I had no issues, we are after all nice Australians with the cool accents, however others on our carriage weren't so lucky. All in around half a dozen people were taken off the train at the border and driven back to the United States to be put on a bus home. This held up the train for what seemed like an eternity and everyone left on board was very happy to finally get moving again. Upon arrival in Montreal there was another delay as the doors of the train had to be de-iced.
Arriving in Quebec was an eye opening experience, it's part of Canada yes, but could easily be a stand alone country. Bienvenue Montreal is the first greeting you get, which is a uniquely French Canadian way of saying welcome to Montreal. The first person who asked where we were from immediately corrected my English pronunciation of 'Australia' to the French pronunciation of 'Australie'. Most people speak French first whoever the majority are also fluent in English. Hearing their voice change from the oh so European sound of their regular speech to the regular Canadian accent when they switch to English was also a bit of a shock. Everything is signed in French first, usually (but not always) with English available as well.
The next morning I headed out towards Viuex Montreal (Old Montreal) while Em stayed back at the hotel. She had bravely battled illness throughout our time in New York, but the sub freezing conditions in Montreal finally got the better of her. So while I was sipping coffee at the Old Montreal Port, Em was visiting the doctors. I went to Old Montreal on foot and the bitterness of the cold hit me like a sharp icy punch to the gut as soon as I walked out the hotel door. The high temperature for Montreal that day was to be a balmy -17°c. Still, braving the cold was well worth it. The Americans call Montreal 'Paris without the jet lag' and wandering the streets it's apparent why. Le rue's of Montreal are spectacular in their beauty, especially when they have a layer of snow on their roves and window sills, it was like walking through a city from a Dickens novel, especially in Old Montreal with it's narrow cobblestone streets . After a few stops at local squares and of course at Basillique de Notre Dame to take in the breathtaking beauty, it was down to the port area for a café laite (served in a bowl!) and a chat to the staff. Apparently we had arrived in Montreal during their first real snow storm of the season, hence the transformation into the winter wonderland city it appeared. Montreals cafe scene was very reminiscent of the Melbourne cafe scene, very casual yet with a classy, serious take on the coffee they serve. Also while in Old Montreal I was encouraged to try the Quebec local dish poutine, which is chips, gravy and cheese curds. Poutine verdict? C'est magnifique!
We had a quiet evening watching the NFL playoffs which sadly door Em saw the Denver Broncos get a lesson in playoff football by the New England Patriots. After a good nights sleep (much needed for both of us) and a breakfast of croissants, we headed to the Olympic precinct, where the 1976 summer games were held. Le Stade Olympique used to be home to Major League Baseballs Montreal Expos before their shift to Washington DC. We however were there to go to the Biodome, the former Olympic velodrome turned into a sort of indoor zoo. It featured four different environments, from a south American rainforest featuring sloths, macaws and alligators through to a Canadian maple forest with otters, beavers and a lynx, to costal and arctic environments with puffins, penguins and sturgeon. We headed back to Old Montreal for lunch and more sightseeing before calling it a day and heading to the hotel.
I am writing this now in the departure lounge of the Montreal airport awaiting our flight to Cleveland. I have found Montreal an interesting place and seeing massive amounts of snow around the streets was an experience I'll never forget. I even think my French improved a little! So au revoiur Montreal, and Canada, with your loonies and toonies, Tim Hortons and hockey obsession. This has been a place I shall never forget.

North America Trip Parts 3&4: Uptown, Downtown, Turn The Beat Around Town.

Frank Sinatra once famously sang about wanting to wake up in the city that never sleeps. Well Frank, guess what? That's exactly what I did on the 11th of January. I imagine you're wondering what we did on our first night in the big apple, where there is something happening 24/7. Let me put your curious minds at ease, after our first day in NYC, both Em and I were asleep by 8 o'clock, completely drained from the long haul from Melbourne to New York via China and LA. Not so much jet lagged, more just overwhelmed by the tyranny of distance. But this was Wednesday, a new day with new things to see and do. I awoke around 10:00 am to find Em already up, showered, dressed and ready to go. Today would be another day pounding the pavement of Manhatten, our first stop, Penn Station and Madison Square Garden to pick up our train tickets for our next stop in Montreal. Just seeing the outside of the Garden was a huge thrill for me, being a lifelong NBA fan as well as a hockey and WWE fan I knew the history of MSG quite well. I was even more excited about the following nights hockey game that we were attending.
Two of Em's bucket list items whilst we were in NY were to go to Greys Papaya so I could get a hot dog there (Em being vegetarian couldn't eat one herself) and a trip and a drink at Slattery's Pub. We wandered the back blocks of Manhatten searching for where Greys Papaya should be but it was to no avail. We later discovered that the original store closed down and they had moved to a second location. To make up for it, we went for another New York staple, a slice of pizza. There are a slew of pizza joints around New York, all teeming with customers and at $1-$1.50 per slice why not? The slices were about the sizable of one of our large pizzas in Australia and I happily smashed into my two slices of pepperoni chased with a Dr. Pepper all for only $4. We had better luck locating Slatterys Pub however, a little Irish pub on East 36th street. It was fairly quiet on this day, we both had a drink (Coke for me and yes US Coke and Pepsi do taste differently to what we have in Australia) and a chat to the Irish lady from Limerick behind the bar and flicked through the New York Post which was NFL heavy in it's coverage of sports, with the Giants being in the playoffs. We took in some more of Central Park, 6th Avenue and the UN building on our way back to our hotel. We went back early to get ready to go to a show at The Comedy Strip comedy club that night. The Comedy Strip is very well known in NY, it was where the opening credits of Seinfeld were filmed and many big name comedians had perfomed there including Jerry Seinfeld himself, Eddie Murphy, Adam Sandler, Ray Romano, Dave Chapelle, Paul Reiser and Chris Rock. Chris Rock apparently used to bus the tables for free when he was starting out there in exchange for more stage time to help him get noticed. The entrance is covered in signed pictures of many of the people who have performed there, most of them looking extremely young! For everyone in Australia we had been told that Carl Barron and Dave Hughes had also performed there as well. It was a very small crowd, but a full house for most of the night. We were sat right in front of the stage and were got to interact with the performers all night. All in all we saw around 20 comedians for the evening. The first half of the show was tremendous, the comedians went over well and the show moved at a cracking pace. After the halftime break however people slowly started filing out of the building, making it tough for the remaining performers to build momentum. By the end of the night, there were four of us left in the audience. I had a chat to one of the MC's, young comedian Jordan Rock, afterwards whilst watching some of the LA Clippers vs Miami NBA game. I asked him about performing in front of that few a number. He was ambivalent about it, "Hey man, it happens" he said with a shrug "It's a late night, people gotta go to work tomorrow, you don't take it personal." When I mentioned Flight Of The Conchords once performing for one person who left halfway through (yes this was featured on their tv show, but it was apparently a true story) and how they went on to have their own HBO series, Jordan nodded and said "I've performed in front of two, three people. You just go out and do your thing and if they like it, cool."
Thursday was our last day in New York and there was still a number of things to be checked off the to do list. We made our way that morning up to the 59th street subway station and caught the train downtown to the Whitehall ferry terminal and Battery Park. The weather was not great, extra cold coupled with that misty sort of rain that isn't really good for anything. We walked through Battery park towards the Statten Island ferry and were pleased to see squirrels scurrying between the trees. The squirrels are very conditioned to humans and would let you hand feed them. Very cool experience.
We boarded the ferry (which is free for anyone who maybe going to NY soon)and set off to view the statue of liberty. The misty rain made viewing from land difficult, but the ferry scooted past Alice Island and we got a great view of the grand lady. The statue wasn't as big as I expected, but it still draws your attention, it's one of the most famous landmarks in the world after all. Lady Liberty is portrayed all over New York, but the actual statue has a quiet dignity about it, contrasting some of the more boisterous New York attractions like Times Square or Broadway.
After a stroll up Wall Street and a bite to eat, I continued on alone. Em had been gamely battling illness since our arrival in New York and it had finally gotten the better of her. She headed back to the hotel and we arranged to meet at the NHL Store before the hockey that night, then I went to the 9/11 memorial site. Entrance is free but a donation is appreciated. Security around the site was extremely tight, similar to going through the airport and security staff and police were everywhere. The wound that America, in particular New York, suffered that horrible day in 2001 is still very much sore and will most likely never go away. Where the twin towers once stood now sits to pools with the names of the victims of the tragedy inscribed around the edge. It's both moving and humbling to read the names, hear the stories and see some of the twisted debris and battered FDNY helmets of those brave souls first on the scene. The memorial itself is classily unsderstated, a place for reflection with a community square feel. There's no flag waving or chest beating on the site, more a sense of wonder at how such a heinous act could be committed by one group of humans onto another. September eleven is a defining moment for my generation and being on the ground where it all happened was surreal. I'll never forget.
Our last night in New York was a hockey game between the NY Rangers and Ottawa (read about it on the sister blog to this one http://shotdownsports.blogspot.com) followed by a cab trip back to the hotel. Tomorrow we would be off to Montreal, Quebec, Canada, our New York adventure over. For now anyway. New York, you haven't seen the last of me...